Martin's Martinborough Wine Report (April 1999)

Martinborough is a small town in the Wairarapa, just over an hour's drive from Wellington over the Tararua mountains. All the vineyards are fairly new, the oldest dating from about 1979 when someone published a report which favourably compared the soils and climate in Martinborough with those in Burgundy. Consequently, wine styles are very Burgundian, and the place is most famous for its Pinot Noir.

There are about 20 vineyards in and around the town, and we visited quite a few of them. Below are some thoughts on some of them, along with information drawn from a book of Australian and NZ wine vintages.

MARTINBOROUGH VINEYARDS

Probably the best known of the vineyards. Famous for its Pinot Noir. The stocks of 1997 Pinot Noir were running so low that they weren't allowing tasting. We bought a couple of bottles and when we went back to collect them later that day they'd sold out completely. We drank one bottle with dinner and it was excellent. Strong varietal character but already tasting pretty complex for such a young wine. If you can track down any of the '97, the notes suggest it'll be drinking best in 2005. We also tasted the Martinborough Chardonnays and found that the 1995 is far superior, slightly nutty and herbal. Drinking well now.

ATA RANGI

Also famous for Pinot Noir. They'd sold out of their '97 Pinot Noir but they had some of their 1998 Young Vines Pinot Noir to taste, which was very good. Supercharged varietal taste, but quite tannic. Powerful stuff, but I don't expect it'll mature much. According to the vintages book the '97 Pinot Noir is drinking well now and is highly rated.

MUIRLEA RISE

Tasted a couple of fairly nondescript Pinot Noirs and a good glugging wine called Justa Red. Also does two fortified wines - Apres and Apres Royale. The latter is made from 100% Pinot Noir fortified with brandy and is very nice, so we bought a bottle. The owner/winemaker is a really nice bloke. After visiting, we bumped into him in a bar one night and had a good long chat.

CHIFNEY

Widow of the guy who set up the winery (first one in Martinborough) was running the tastings. They do a wine called Enigma which is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Shiraz which is OK but nothing special. Their Chardonnay was no world-beater either, but their 1998 Chardonnay/Chenin Blanc mix was very nice. We bought a bottle for the cellar and in hine site Anneliese now wishes we had bought a couple more!

WINSLOW

Had a very nice 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon called Petra here. Anneliese found it too dry but I thought it was a real gutsy wine, plenty of fruit but bone dry. Should develop into something quite nice. They also had a fortified wine (can't remember the name) which is spiced as well as being fortified and tastes a bit reminiscent of Christmas pud! Didn't buy anything but will keep my eyes open.

WALKER ESTATE

A very bitter and twisted woman here! They have a vine which was originally bought as a cutting from Ata Rangi. It was supposed to be Shiraz but it isn't! They've DNA tested it and it isn't any known variety. They call it Notre Vigne, and the wine is OK but nothing special. They don't make the wine themselves and are currently suing their winemaker, so anything could happen.

LINTZ

Vineyard with a huge reputation, wins all sorts of awards. However, we were not at all impressed. They did a vile concoction called Auxerrois which tasted disgusting, and their other stuff was uninspiring. Apparently their signature wine is a dessert wine called Noble Optima, which I'm looking out for.

DRY RIVER

A cult vineyard which doesn't do visits. Their wine is like gold dust as well. Apparently the only way to get it in New Zealand is to be on their mailing list, and even then each release generally sells out in a couple of weeks. We tracked down a bottle of their 1997 Pinot Noir at the Martinborough Hotel (more on their winelist later) and it was stunning. Even more well-developed than the Martinborough Pinot Noir which is the only one which comes close out of the wines we tasted. What it will be like in a few years, God only knows. Apparently their Gewurztramminer and Pinot Gris are excellent as well, and I'll certainly be trying to spot them.

Most of these vineyards are pretty small and their wines are pretty hard to find even in Wellington. However, a handful of them do export:

Ata Rangi - Fine Wines of New Zealand, P0 Box 476, London NW5 2NZ

Dry River - Justerini & Brooks, 61 St James Street, London SWIA I LZ

Lintz - Parfitz Wine, 30 Main Road, Dowsby, Bourne, Lincs, PEIO OTL

Martinborough - Haughton Agencies, Sole Bay Brewery, Southwold, Suffolk IP18 6JW

Bibendum in London also stock some. Czerwik's in Brighouse may have some or may be able to track some down.

Now, the winelist at the Martinborough Hotel. Certainly one of the best I've seen. As well as a pretty good general selection, they concentrate on Pinot Noir. They have selected Pinot Noirs from around the world, including Chambolle Musignys from France, others from Oregon, Australia etc. In addition, they have Pinot Noirs from all the Martinborough producers including verticals from several e.g. all vintages 1990-97 for Martinborough Vineyards, 1989-97 for Palliser, several Reserve bottlings and odd bottle sizes. Very interesting.

There's no doubt that we'll be back in Martinborough again. I'm planning to get on the mailing lists for some of these vineyards and I'll let you know as and when I hear of releases which sound interesting. The 1999 harvest is just about completed. It has been a long summer, pretty dry at the end, although they had some problems with wind in the spring which has led to low yields, but good quality.